Jews Row Balcony
Jews Row Balcony may not be a familiar topic to you but that’s not a problem- as I can’t stop talking about it. It’s a small affair that’s on the brink of going viral. On the brink I say as it’s only recently come out of the closet from the even lesser known Nathan’s supper club, which can be broken down further to dinner cooked by Nathan, a friend of mine, quite simply for our friends, monthly.
I shall start at the beginning and explain that Nathan Richardson is no ordinary chef. I can’t deny that he had some training as he dabbled with a pastry chef role for a few years before packing himself off to university, which is where he left his culinary flair as a hobby. This break from a paid kitchen role may have worked to his advantage as cooking is most certainly not a chore for him. I’ve known him to spend the majority of his wages on the latest innovative Heston-esque equipment, and to scour London’s butchers and markets for fresh, original produce; spoiling us diners with incredible quality at no cost. This is where it had to change.
Following a monthly get together between friends, Nathan’s five/ six course dinners were becoming infamous within our social circle. Friends were arguing over spots at the next one, and Jo Ellery (Nathan’s host and flat mate) often had penned a waiting list in order to keep it fair and to see that no one missed out next time. This is not how casual dinner parties usually play out. The excitement surrounding subsequent dinners were evidence alone that there’s a place for Nathan’s supper club within London’s dining community, and I for one had become addicted.
As we garbled with admiration to anyone who would listen, we sparked an interest from Oisin Rogers and Phil White, the guys holding the reins of London’s mentalist pub the Ship in Wandsworth; who then asked to be on the guest list for the next event. They weren’t disappointed and couldn’t believe that Nathan was not charging for such high-end dishes. Phil, a live-in Manager, started toying with moving the dinner from Nathan’s home in Battersea, to his balcony above the Ship which overlooks the Thames, with the intention to open it up to the public as an on-trend Supper Club, now known as #JewsRowBalcony.
After a preliminary run two weeks ago, #JewsRowBalcony debuted this week, hosted by Phil and Jo and with the additional John Knight who had his own popup at the event; ‘Jonny Rocket’s Tiki Bar’. Guests were greeted on arrival by the ever chirpy Rocket with his custom made white sangria, made from a combination of fresh lemon juice, Grand Marnier, peach liqueur, pressed apple juice and sauvignon blanc. It was delicious and a perfect start to the evening.
After inhaling the view (and my cocktail) with fellow friends and guests of the Ship, we were led from the bar, a rather interesting erection of bamboo and Phil’s surfboard, and sat at the long table running landscape across the balcony. Pimm’s had kindly supplied a mini gazebo, which provided the perfect construction for the beach hut inspired make-shift lighting. As I inspected the funky mismatched tiles that were to be place mats and coasters, Jo poured the first of many BYO wines brought by the various guests.
Nathan’s menu didn’t disappoint, beginning with an innovative amuse of white onion soup in an ornate espresso cup with mushroom sprinkles on top that was served with pork belly lollipops and whole grain mustard ice cream. I requested an additional box of the ice-cream to take home. It really is a ‘must try’. Ashley Palmer-Watts and his new ice cream machine would be proud.
Amuse of White Onion Soup with Mushroom Sprinkles, Pork Belly Lollipops and Whole Grain Mustard Ice cream
The next dish was a prestarter consisting of caramelised sweetbreads, black pudding purée, cep foam, mushroom and sweetbread croquettes and pea shoots. This was then followed by a starter of butter poached prawns, saffron egg yolk, parsley gel and prawn consommé. These beautifully presented dishes were cleared in minutes and guests really knew by this point that they had signed up for something special.
Caramelised Sweetbreads, Black Pudding Purée, Cep Foam, Mushroom and Sweetbread Croquettes and Pea Shoots
Butter Poached Prawns, Saffron Egg Yolk, Parsley Gel and Prawn Consommé
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The main was always going to be my favourite as Nathan himself knows I have a weakness for any duck dish. This wasn’t any duck dish though. My mouth salivates remembering the juicy poached duck breast and foie gras, served on a brioche crostini with hazelnut fluid gel, confit shallots, duck crackling and cherry purée. The hazelnut fluid gel may have had a minor role on the plate but certainly added to the overall taste combination. Imagine duck with Ferrero Rocher, basically heaven.
Poached Duck Breast and Foie Gras, served on a Brioche Crostini with Hazelnut Fluid Gel, Confit Shallots, Duck Crackling and Cherry Purée
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White Peach and Raspberry Bavarois, Almond Ice cream, Raspberry Macaroons, Glazed Marzipan and Vanilla Milk Jelly
Nathan concluded the feast with a white peach and raspberry bavarois served alongside almond ice cream, raspberry macaroons, glazed marzipan and vanilla milk jelly. Bonkers, but it worked. I would usually not be able to fit so many dishes in, but for Nathan’s supper clubs (now obviously #Jewrowbalcony) I know to get my elasticated waists out of the wardrobe with the intention to pile away the pounds.
The night concluded with more cocktails, giggles and chatter in Jonny Rocket’s Tiki Bar, and at 2am when we all had zoned out to take in the picturesque view of Wandsworth Bridge lit up by night, we knew it was time we actually took our bellies to bed.
A truly fabulous evening executed with great attention to detail. I’d put your name down for the next one.
£25 per head for food and welcome cocktail. Bring your own beer/ wine.
Follow @JewsRowBalcony on Twitter for further news of future events.
41 Jews Row, Wandsworth, London. SW18 1TB.
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