A little Christmas treat
It’s incredible how far Nathan Richardson’s Jews Row Balcony (#JRB) has come since the intimate gatherings back in his flat in 2010 (https://whosebootsarethoseshoes.com/2011/06/03/jews-row-balcony/ ). 
This year saw the pop-up duo take the concept on tour, appear in demand at many SW London homes as well as their first ever ticketed public event, at the Thatched House in Hammersmith.
I was fortunate to pin down Nathan and Phil for a Christmas get-together with friends, boasting a menu that had come a long way since the early days. We began with a goose ham sandwich (dispel any prior imagery you might have of a sandwich) covered in a bread sauce foam with a leaning morsel of rich beautiful duck liver encased in crisp smoky bacon. Textures matched incredibly. Topped off with a tiny side of refreshing pickled cucumber and redcurrant fluid gel.
To cleanse the palette it felt like Heston had been involved as Phil came in with a large bowl lined with deep soup spoons, filled with a ball of satsuma sorbet and bubbling dry ice in the centre creating a magical mist that infused the sorbet with pine. Unforgettable.
The next course was probably my favourite, surprising when I usually steer away from strong fishy dishes. 
A colourful lime green and yellow haddock kedgeree, with scrambled egg that still oozed out a burnt orange yolk, mixed within a watercress hollandaise and topped with a toasted slice of croissant. It has to be devoured to be believed.
The main event was an assiette of the best of lamb, a plate that sparked the discussion of when a lamb is no longer a lamb thus becomes a sheep, followed by when is a sheep old enough to be deemed a mutton… confusing matters – answers in the comments please. The dish was almost as complicated with succulent lamb breast centre stage, fried soubise, leeks, fondant potato cubes and a splodge of pea purée.
Feeling slightly spent we sighed at the notion of two more dishes still to come, foolishly doubting Nathan’s portioning abilities as he’d cleverly devised the first to be an infill; small but immensely impactful. Served in a pretty tea cup and saucer we were spoilt with hot mulled cranberry port and deconstructed walnuts, to which he had removed the nut and filled with crystallised stem ginger, roasted cashews and spiced fudge. We couldn’t believe it. The shell had been glued back together with egg white. Attention to detail would envy Nathan Richardson.
Not to be out done the dessert was as naughty as most of the mains and a perfect finish to such a festive feast. He introduced a mound of chocolate goo, or more formally chocolate and chestnut gateaux, accompanied by spiced apple ice cream, chestnut cream and a brandy snap. No one went home hungry. Or sober for that matter. Truly a perfect evening with fabulous friends and satisfied bellies.
Looking forward to seeing what Nathan has up his rolled-up sleeves in 2013!
Happy Christmas.
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