Gazette
A mid-August evening, what could be called lolling (and not laughing out loud) along the Wandsworth Thames-side promenade, passing upper class families who’ve bought up the river, beautiful youths cashing in on their early (or parents) monetary success and celebrities, mainly sporting, all taking in the air and absorbing the retiring sunshine. There’s no sense of urgency as children on scooters dart across the path, cyclists and segways kill their speed to prolong the picture, and paps like me involuntarily snap the glistening landscape ahead as though Instagram itself would be robbed without it.
It’s a Friday night in Wandworth/ Battersea, and I feel abroad. This feeling heightens as you cut through the cobbles into Sherwood Court, arriving at the terrace of Gazette Brasserie, our dining choice for the evening. It’s only as I am writing this that I am surprised to find this branch is from the chain I have seen or visited in both Balham and Putney. Surprised as the feeling is entirely different, that of an independent- the care, the elegance, the treat. You wouldn’t get the same attention/ romance on the high streets of Balham or Putney.
I literally felt like I was in France due to the decor of the rooms, as waiter after waiter welcomed us with warmth the French aren’t known for, before seating us at the bar in reception as our table on the terrace was being prepared. With a close humidity in the outside air, the air-con in this waiting area was a delight, and so was the Courvoisier XO cognac we chose as an aperitif – slightly backward I know, but it’s Friday and rules were made to be broken.
After discussing wines with the Somellier for ten minutes or so, we were led to our white lined table, seated with importance and ready for our first glass of wine. I fancied a Riesling, so we were educated and guided into trying a gewürztraminer, which was beautiful, both alone and with our delicious starters. Mine being chicken liver and foie gras parfait and my company’s the escargot in a citrus and garlic butter. I did try a snail, so I can cross that off my gastronomic to-do list, but as much as I wanted to love them (for my Parisian inner-self), it went round and round my mouth like a toddler who’s face would have crumpled and tears probably would have rolled. I obviously styled it out with chic elegance and a quick gulp- given the company and environment.
For mains it had to be the cote de boeuf to share. Brought over to the table next to us with quite some theatre, the waitress sliced the meat off the bone above a pretty heated contraption with tealights maintaining the heat. There was enough red meat to feed a family of five. It really was melt-in-your mouth divine, the peppery crust an added bonus. This meal topped most ‘steak and red wine Fridays’- an extra-curricular activity I am good at. The only link I can make to the other branches were the chips or frittes as they are called, and this is a positive thing. Proper handmade chips, soft/ soggy in the middle, with a moreish crispy coating. I remember them with a mischievous glint in my eye – a bed for my steak bavette in the Balham branch. No one can eat that many chips I thought, until I did.
By now we had switched to a smooth but hearty red, Saint Emilion – Chateau Le Freyche, that had been breathing alongside us in a beautiful etched glass decanter, smoothing out the kinks as much as we were in this relaxed al fresco environment. All we needed were some buskers boldly selling pirate dvds, stray tail-less cats infested with fleas and walking accordion players (probably also infested with fleas), and I definitely would have assumed I had teleported across the channel.
With swollen bellies, we simply had to decline desserts however I’m sure the opulence we had indulged in so far would have continued. Did I mention the glass display cabinet in the reception area filled with all manner of suggestive cheese. Like the crown jewels, I looked but I didn’t touch. A reason, among many, for a return.
Should you wish to have a party here, there are rooms above for private hire.
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